better html tags and link from the index page

git-svn-id: svn://svn.rockbox.org/rockbox/trunk@4491 a1c6a512-1295-4272-9138-f99709370657

2 files changed, 20 insertions, 20 deletions

diff --git a/www/docs/index.t b/www/docs/index.t
index e7da55fec7..f1557a754a 100644
--- a/www/docs/index.t
+++ b/www/docs/index.t
@@ -42,6 +42,7 @@ Archos. (Jean Boullier)
 <li> <a href="uisimulator.html">How to compile the uisimulators</a> (linux/cygwin style)
 <li> <a href="http://www.mcintoshfamily.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/rockbox/buildingInEclipse.htm">How to build and debug Rockbox in the Eclipse IDE</a> 
 <li> <a href="flash.html">How to flash Rockbox on your Archos</a>
+<li> <a href="repairlcd.html">How to repair your broken LCD</a>
 </ul>
 
 <h3>Specs and Papers</h3>
diff --git a/www/docs/repairlcd.t b/www/docs/repairlcd.t
index c88dae3ec1..6c1438853e 100644
--- a/www/docs/repairlcd.t
+++ b/www/docs/repairlcd.t
@@ -8,8 +8,7 @@ My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm
 typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too.
 <p>
 Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what?
-<p>
-PART 1: Getting a new screen.
+<h2>PART 1: Getting a new screen</h2>
 <p>
 You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where 
 to get one.
@@ -21,20 +20,20 @@ Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan
 Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to 
 listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at:
 <p>
-http://www.newmp3technology.com/
+<a href="http://www.newmp3technology.com/">http://www.newmp3technology.com/</a>
 <p>
 For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60 
 minimum just to look at it.)
-<p>
-PART 2: Disassembling the Frame
+
+<h2>PART 2: Disassembling the Frame</h2>
 <p>
 This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx 
 bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to 
 take the box apart.
 <p>
-http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html
-<p>
-PART 3: Desoldering
+<a href="http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html">http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html</a>
+
+<h2>PART 3: Desoldering</h2>
 <p>
 There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are 
 three on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at 
@@ -51,10 +50,10 @@ though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will
 stick together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by 
 several wires. Don't break them.
 <p>
-NOTE: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires 
+<b>NOTE</b>: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires 
 embedded in them. This won't make your life any easier.
 <p>
-NOTE: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work, 
+<b>NOTE</b>: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work, 
 make sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of 
 simple scotch tape worked for me.)
 <p>
@@ -63,9 +62,9 @@ BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work!
 Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is 
 for the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative.
 <p>
-http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html
-<p>
-PART 3: The New LCD
+<a href="http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html">http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html</a>
+
+<h2>PART 3: The New LCD</h2>
 <p>
 Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of 
 the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector. 
@@ -73,8 +72,8 @@ When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation
 (duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back 
 down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful 
 with the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile.
-<p>
-PART 4: Test!
+
+<h2>PART 4: Test!</h2>
 <p>
 Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board 
 so the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the 
@@ -83,7 +82,7 @@ LCD works. You should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or
 something to that effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you 
 can proceed to reassemble. If not, go back to part 3.
 <p>
-PART 5: Resolder
+<h2>PART 5: Resolder</h2>
 <p>
 UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.)
 <p>
@@ -101,8 +100,8 @@ they scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame,
 melted the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling 
 awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to 
 put the tape back on if you removed it.
-<p>
-PART 6: Reassemble the Archos!
+
+<h2>PART 6: Reassemble the Archos!</h2>
 <p>
 Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber 
 bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site 
@@ -110,8 +109,8 @@ about how to put them on the right way.
 <p>
 Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your 
 firmware, I bet it's out of date!
-<p>
-CONCLUSION
+
+<h2>CONCLUSION</h2>
 <p>
 In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone 
 qualified, but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few