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author | Daniel Stenberg <daniel@haxx.se> | 2004-04-13 10:25:44 +0000 |
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committer | Daniel Stenberg <daniel@haxx.se> | 2004-04-13 10:25:44 +0000 |
commit | 65ef9640d8a3fba6641b324bd299c91350ab8fb3 (patch) | |
tree | d81841300790e51ba069c16b4db04049acc3e4ae | |
parent | e75e4fcb0a3c7fc9c3d40b4bb7e23e48d670adb0 (diff) | |
download | rockbox-65ef9640d8a3fba6641b324bd299c91350ab8fb3.tar.gz rockbox-65ef9640d8a3fba6641b324bd299c91350ab8fb3.zip |
better html tags and link from the index page
git-svn-id: svn://svn.rockbox.org/rockbox/trunk@4491 a1c6a512-1295-4272-9138-f99709370657
-rw-r--r-- | www/docs/index.t | 1 | ||||
-rw-r--r-- | www/docs/repairlcd.t | 39 |
2 files changed, 20 insertions, 20 deletions
diff --git a/www/docs/index.t b/www/docs/index.t index e7da55fec7..f1557a754a 100644 --- a/www/docs/index.t +++ b/www/docs/index.t | |||
@@ -42,6 +42,7 @@ Archos. (Jean Boullier) | |||
42 | <li> <a href="uisimulator.html">How to compile the uisimulators</a> (linux/cygwin style) | 42 | <li> <a href="uisimulator.html">How to compile the uisimulators</a> (linux/cygwin style) |
43 | <li> <a href="http://www.mcintoshfamily.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/rockbox/buildingInEclipse.htm">How to build and debug Rockbox in the Eclipse IDE</a> | 43 | <li> <a href="http://www.mcintoshfamily.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/rockbox/buildingInEclipse.htm">How to build and debug Rockbox in the Eclipse IDE</a> |
44 | <li> <a href="flash.html">How to flash Rockbox on your Archos</a> | 44 | <li> <a href="flash.html">How to flash Rockbox on your Archos</a> |
45 | <li> <a href="repairlcd.html">How to repair your broken LCD</a> | ||
45 | </ul> | 46 | </ul> |
46 | 47 | ||
47 | <h3>Specs and Papers</h3> | 48 | <h3>Specs and Papers</h3> |
diff --git a/www/docs/repairlcd.t b/www/docs/repairlcd.t index c88dae3ec1..6c1438853e 100644 --- a/www/docs/repairlcd.t +++ b/www/docs/repairlcd.t | |||
@@ -8,8 +8,7 @@ My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm | |||
8 | typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too. | 8 | typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too. |
9 | <p> | 9 | <p> |
10 | Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what? | 10 | Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what? |
11 | <p> | 11 | <h2>PART 1: Getting a new screen</h2> |
12 | PART 1: Getting a new screen. | ||
13 | <p> | 12 | <p> |
14 | You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where | 13 | You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where |
15 | to get one. | 14 | to get one. |
@@ -21,20 +20,20 @@ Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan | |||
21 | Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to | 20 | Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to |
22 | listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at: | 21 | listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at: |
23 | <p> | 22 | <p> |
24 | http://www.newmp3technology.com/ | 23 | <a href="http://www.newmp3technology.com/">http://www.newmp3technology.com/</a> |
25 | <p> | 24 | <p> |
26 | For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60 | 25 | For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60 |
27 | minimum just to look at it.) | 26 | minimum just to look at it.) |
28 | <p> | 27 | |
29 | PART 2: Disassembling the Frame | 28 | <h2>PART 2: Disassembling the Frame</h2> |
30 | <p> | 29 | <p> |
31 | This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx | 30 | This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx |
32 | bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to | 31 | bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to |
33 | take the box apart. | 32 | take the box apart. |
34 | <p> | 33 | <p> |
35 | http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html | 34 | <a href="http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html">http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html</a> |
36 | <p> | 35 | |
37 | PART 3: Desoldering | 36 | <h2>PART 3: Desoldering</h2> |
38 | <p> | 37 | <p> |
39 | There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are | 38 | There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are |
40 | three on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at | 39 | three on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at |
@@ -51,10 +50,10 @@ though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will | |||
51 | stick together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by | 50 | stick together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by |
52 | several wires. Don't break them. | 51 | several wires. Don't break them. |
53 | <p> | 52 | <p> |
54 | NOTE: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires | 53 | <b>NOTE</b>: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires |
55 | embedded in them. This won't make your life any easier. | 54 | embedded in them. This won't make your life any easier. |
56 | <p> | 55 | <p> |
57 | NOTE: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work, | 56 | <b>NOTE</b>: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work, |
58 | make sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of | 57 | make sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of |
59 | simple scotch tape worked for me.) | 58 | simple scotch tape worked for me.) |
60 | <p> | 59 | <p> |
@@ -63,9 +62,9 @@ BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work! | |||
63 | Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is | 62 | Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is |
64 | for the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative. | 63 | for the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative. |
65 | <p> | 64 | <p> |
66 | http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html | 65 | <a href="http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html">http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html</a> |
67 | <p> | 66 | |
68 | PART 3: The New LCD | 67 | <h2>PART 3: The New LCD</h2> |
69 | <p> | 68 | <p> |
70 | Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of | 69 | Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of |
71 | the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector. | 70 | the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector. |
@@ -73,8 +72,8 @@ When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation | |||
73 | (duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back | 72 | (duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back |
74 | down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful | 73 | down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful |
75 | with the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile. | 74 | with the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile. |
76 | <p> | 75 | |
77 | PART 4: Test! | 76 | <h2>PART 4: Test!</h2> |
78 | <p> | 77 | <p> |
79 | Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board | 78 | Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board |
80 | so the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the | 79 | so the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the |
@@ -83,7 +82,7 @@ LCD works. You should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or | |||
83 | something to that effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you | 82 | something to that effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you |
84 | can proceed to reassemble. If not, go back to part 3. | 83 | can proceed to reassemble. If not, go back to part 3. |
85 | <p> | 84 | <p> |
86 | PART 5: Resolder | 85 | <h2>PART 5: Resolder</h2> |
87 | <p> | 86 | <p> |
88 | UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.) | 87 | UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.) |
89 | <p> | 88 | <p> |
@@ -101,8 +100,8 @@ they scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame, | |||
101 | melted the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling | 100 | melted the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling |
102 | awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to | 101 | awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to |
103 | put the tape back on if you removed it. | 102 | put the tape back on if you removed it. |
104 | <p> | 103 | |
105 | PART 6: Reassemble the Archos! | 104 | <h2>PART 6: Reassemble the Archos!</h2> |
106 | <p> | 105 | <p> |
107 | Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber | 106 | Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber |
108 | bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site | 107 | bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site |
@@ -110,8 +109,8 @@ about how to put them on the right way. | |||
110 | <p> | 109 | <p> |
111 | Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your | 110 | Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your |
112 | firmware, I bet it's out of date! | 111 | firmware, I bet it's out of date! |
113 | <p> | 112 | |
114 | CONCLUSION | 113 | <h2>CONCLUSION</h2> |
115 | <p> | 114 | <p> |
116 | In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone | 115 | In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone |
117 | qualified, but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few | 116 | qualified, but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few |