diff options
author | Daniel Stenberg <daniel@haxx.se> | 2004-04-13 08:51:39 +0000 |
---|---|---|
committer | Daniel Stenberg <daniel@haxx.se> | 2004-04-13 08:51:39 +0000 |
commit | e75e4fcb0a3c7fc9c3d40b4bb7e23e48d670adb0 (patch) | |
tree | 1edf1846c0ed05e5d5ebf97f39e992dc7dd3ad31 | |
parent | 4c3b61c5c881144544c35cea80d9af36decfce50 (diff) | |
download | rockbox-e75e4fcb0a3c7fc9c3d40b4bb7e23e48d670adb0.tar.gz rockbox-e75e4fcb0a3c7fc9c3d40b4bb7e23e48d670adb0.zip |
htmlified the docs
git-svn-id: svn://svn.rockbox.org/rockbox/trunk@4490 a1c6a512-1295-4272-9138-f99709370657
-rw-r--r-- | www/docs/repairlcd.t | 74 |
1 files changed, 37 insertions, 37 deletions
diff --git a/www/docs/repairlcd.t b/www/docs/repairlcd.t index 0233b68f97..c88dae3ec1 100644 --- a/www/docs/repairlcd.t +++ b/www/docs/repairlcd.t | |||
@@ -1,40 +1,41 @@ | |||
1 | #define _PAGE_ Repair Your LCD | 1 | #define _PAGE_ Repair Your LCD |
2 | #include "head.t" | 2 | #include "head.t" |
3 | 3 | ||
4 | <pre> | 4 | <p> |
5 | Author: Peter van Hardenberg | 5 | Author: Peter van Hardenberg |
6 | 6 | <p> | |
7 | My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm | 7 | My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm |
8 | typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too. | 8 | typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too. |
9 | 9 | <p> | |
10 | Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what? | 10 | Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what? |
11 | 11 | <p> | |
12 | PART 1: Getting a new screen. | 12 | PART 1: Getting a new screen. |
13 | 13 | <p> | |
14 | You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where | 14 | You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where |
15 | to get one. | 15 | to get one. |
16 | 16 | <pre> | |
17 | Part number: G112064-30 | 17 | Part number: G112064-30 |
18 | Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan | 18 | Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan |
19 | 19 | </pre> | |
20 | <p> | ||
20 | Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to | 21 | Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to |
21 | listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at: | 22 | listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at: |
22 | 23 | <p> | |
23 | http://www.newmp3technology.com/ | 24 | http://www.newmp3technology.com/ |
24 | 25 | <p> | |
25 | For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60 | 26 | For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60 |
26 | minimum just to look at it.) | 27 | minimum just to look at it.) |
27 | 28 | <p> | |
28 | PART 2: Disassembling the Frame | 29 | PART 2: Disassembling the Frame |
29 | 30 | <p> | |
30 | This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx | 31 | This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx |
31 | bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to | 32 | bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to |
32 | take the box apart. | 33 | take the box apart. |
33 | 34 | <p> | |
34 | http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html | 35 | http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html |
35 | 36 | <p> | |
36 | PART 3: Desoldering | 37 | PART 3: Desoldering |
37 | 38 | <p> | |
38 | There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are | 39 | There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are |
39 | three on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at | 40 | three on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at |
40 | the top end. The side points are structural, but the top two (which are on | 41 | the top end. The side points are structural, but the top two (which are on |
@@ -43,84 +44,83 @@ going to tell you how to desolder a joint. That is up to you. I found it | |||
43 | helpful to use a small tool to lift up the joints as I worked, seperating | 44 | helpful to use a small tool to lift up the joints as I worked, seperating |
44 | the side ones individually and then gradually working out the top ones. I | 45 | the side ones individually and then gradually working out the top ones. I |
45 | certainly hope you are more competant at desoldering than I. | 46 | certainly hope you are more competant at desoldering than I. |
46 | 47 | <p> | |
47 | The two electronics boards inside the Archos are connected by a paralell | 48 | The two electronics boards inside the Archos are connected by a paralell |
48 | connector, much like the one you find on the back of your hard drives, | 49 | connector, much like the one you find on the back of your hard drives, |
49 | though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will | 50 | though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will |
50 | stick together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by | 51 | stick together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by |
51 | several wires. Don't break them. | 52 | several wires. Don't break them. |
52 | 53 | <p> | |
53 | NOTE: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires | 54 | NOTE: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires |
54 | embedded in them. This won't make your life any easier. | 55 | embedded in them. This won't make your life any easier. |
55 | 56 | <p> | |
56 | NOTE: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work, | 57 | NOTE: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work, |
57 | make sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of | 58 | make sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of |
58 | simple scotch tape worked for me.) | 59 | simple scotch tape worked for me.) |
59 | 60 | <p> | |
60 | BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work! | 61 | BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work! |
61 | 62 | <p> | |
62 | Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is | 63 | Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is |
63 | for the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative. | 64 | for the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative. |
64 | 65 | <p> | |
65 | http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html | 66 | http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html |
66 | 67 | <p> | |
67 | PART 3: The New LCD | 68 | PART 3: The New LCD |
68 | 69 | <p> | |
69 | Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of | 70 | Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of |
70 | the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector. | 71 | the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector. |
71 | When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation | 72 | When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation |
72 | (duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back | 73 | (duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back |
73 | down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful | 74 | down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful |
74 | with the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile. | 75 | with the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile. |
75 | 76 | <p> | |
76 | PART 4: Test! | 77 | PART 4: Test! |
77 | 78 | <p> | |
78 | Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board | 79 | Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board |
79 | so the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the | 80 | so the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the |
80 | microphone! Now you can plug the unit into the AC adapter to see if the | 81 | microphone! Now you can plug the unit into the AC adapter to see if the |
81 | LCD works. You should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or | 82 | LCD works. You should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or |
82 | something to that effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you | 83 | something to that effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you |
83 | can proceed to reassemble. If not, go back to part 3. | 84 | can proceed to reassemble. If not, go back to part 3. |
84 | 85 | <p> | |
85 | PART 5: Resolder | 86 | PART 5: Resolder |
86 | 87 | <p> | |
87 | UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.) | 88 | UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.) |
88 | 89 | <p> | |
89 | Resolder the two top connections (the ones by the mic). | 90 | Resolder the two top connections (the ones by the mic). |
90 | 91 | <p> | |
91 | PLUG the archos back in. The hard drive should spin up. Nothing much more | 92 | PLUG the archos back in. The hard drive should spin up. Nothing much more |
92 | will happen until you put the batteries in though. (I think, I can't quite | 93 | will happen until you put the batteries in though. (I think, I can't quite |
93 | remember.) | 94 | remember.) |
94 | 95 | <p> | |
95 | Okay, good. Unplug the Archos again. | 96 | Okay, good. Unplug the Archos again. |
96 | 97 | <p> | |
97 | IMPORTANT: When you resolder the frame points, make sure you don't leave | 98 | IMPORTANT: When you resolder the frame points, make sure you don't leave |
98 | any pointy bits of solder poking into where the batteries run. I did, and | 99 | any pointy bits of solder poking into where the batteries run. I did, and |
99 | they scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame, | 100 | they scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame, |
100 | melted the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling | 101 | melted the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling |
101 | awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to | 102 | awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to |
102 | put the tape back on if you removed it. | 103 | put the tape back on if you removed it. |
103 | 104 | <p> | |
104 | PART 6: Reassemble the Archos! | 105 | PART 6: Reassemble the Archos! |
105 | 106 | <p> | |
106 | Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber | 107 | Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber |
107 | bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site | 108 | bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site |
108 | about how to put them on the right way. | 109 | about how to put them on the right way. |
109 | 110 | <p> | |
110 | Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your | 111 | Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your |
111 | firmware, I bet it's out of date! | 112 | firmware, I bet it's out of date! |
112 | 113 | <p> | |
113 | CONCLUSION | 114 | CONCLUSION |
114 | 115 | <p> | |
115 | In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone | 116 | In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone |
116 | qualified, but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few | 117 | qualified, but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few |
117 | things about my Archos though, and I look forward to trying some of the | 118 | things about my Archos though, and I look forward to trying some of the |
118 | other mods. | 119 | other mods. |
119 | 120 | <p> | |
120 | I'm sure there are people out there (real pros) who are horrified at what | 121 | I'm sure there are people out there (real pros) who are horrified at what |
121 | I have written. Please, correct any mistakes I have made in this document | 122 | I have written. Please, correct any mistakes I have made in this document |
122 | so future 'boxers don't have to go through the hours of stress and strain | 123 | so future 'boxers don't have to go through the hours of stress and strain |
123 | I did. | 124 | I did. |
124 | 125 | ||
125 | </pre> | ||
126 | #include "foot.t" | 126 | #include "foot.t" |