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1 | #define _PAGE_ Repair Your LCD | ||
2 | #include "head.t" | ||
3 | |||
4 | <pre> | ||
5 | Author: Peter van Hardenberg | ||
6 | |||
7 | My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm | ||
8 | typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too. | ||
9 | |||
10 | Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what? | ||
11 | |||
12 | PART 1: Getting a new screen. | ||
13 | |||
14 | You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where | ||
15 | to get one. | ||
16 | |||
17 | Part number: G112064-30 | ||
18 | Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan | ||
19 | |||
20 | Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to | ||
21 | listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at: | ||
22 | |||
23 | http://www.newmp3technology.com/ | ||
24 | |||
25 | For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60 | ||
26 | minimum just to look at it.) | ||
27 | |||
28 | PART 2: Disassembling the Frame | ||
29 | |||
30 | This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx | ||
31 | bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to | ||
32 | take the box apart. | ||
33 | |||
34 | http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html | ||
35 | |||
36 | PART 3: Desoldering | ||
37 | |||
38 | There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are | ||
39 | three on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at | ||
40 | the top end. The side points are structural, but the top two (which are on | ||
41 | either side of the microphone) supply power to the hard drive. I am not | ||
42 | going to tell you how to desolder a joint. That is up to you. I found it | ||
43 | helpful to use a small tool to lift up the joints as I worked, seperating | ||
44 | the side ones individually and then gradually working out the top ones. I | ||
45 | certainly hope you are more competant at desoldering than I. | ||
46 | |||
47 | The two electronics boards inside the Archos are connected by a paralell | ||
48 | connector, much like the one you find on the back of your hard drives, | ||
49 | though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will | ||
50 | stick together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by | ||
51 | several wires. Don't break them. | ||
52 | |||
53 | NOTE: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires | ||
54 | embedded in them. This won't make your life any easier. | ||
55 | |||
56 | NOTE: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work, | ||
57 | make sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of | ||
58 | simple scotch tape worked for me.) | ||
59 | |||
60 | BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work! | ||
61 | |||
62 | Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is | ||
63 | for the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative. | ||
64 | |||
65 | http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html | ||
66 | |||
67 | PART 3: The New LCD | ||
68 | |||
69 | Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of | ||
70 | the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector. | ||
71 | When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation | ||
72 | (duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back | ||
73 | down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful | ||
74 | with the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile. | ||
75 | |||
76 | PART 4: Test! | ||
77 | |||
78 | Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board | ||
79 | so the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the | ||
80 | microphone! Now you can plug the unit into the AC adapter to see if the | ||
81 | LCD works. You should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or | ||
82 | something to that effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you | ||
83 | can proceed to reassemble. If not, go back to part 3. | ||
84 | |||
85 | PART 5: Resolder | ||
86 | |||
87 | UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.) | ||
88 | |||
89 | Resolder the two top connections (the ones by the mic). | ||
90 | |||
91 | PLUG the archos back in. The hard drive should spin up. Nothing much more | ||
92 | will happen until you put the batteries in though. (I think, I can't quite | ||
93 | remember.) | ||
94 | |||
95 | Okay, good. Unplug the Archos again. | ||
96 | |||
97 | IMPORTANT: When you resolder the frame points, make sure you don't leave | ||
98 | any pointy bits of solder poking into where the batteries run. I did, and | ||
99 | they scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame, | ||
100 | melted the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling | ||
101 | awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to | ||
102 | put the tape back on if you removed it. | ||
103 | |||
104 | PART 6: Reassemble the Archos! | ||
105 | |||
106 | Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber | ||
107 | bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site | ||
108 | about how to put them on the right way. | ||
109 | |||
110 | Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your | ||
111 | firmware, I bet it's out of date! | ||
112 | |||
113 | CONCLUSION | ||
114 | |||
115 | In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone | ||
116 | qualified, but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few | ||
117 | things about my Archos though, and I look forward to trying some of the | ||
118 | other mods. | ||
119 | |||
120 | I'm sure there are people out there (real pros) who are horrified at what | ||
121 | I have written. Please, correct any mistakes I have made in this document | ||
122 | so future 'boxers don't have to go through the hours of stress and strain | ||
123 | I did. | ||
124 | |||
125 | </pre> | ||
126 | #include "foot.t" | ||