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1#define _PAGE_ Repair Your LCD
2#include "head.t"
3
4<p>
5Author: Peter van Hardenberg
6<p>
7My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm
8typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too.
9<p>
10Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what?
11<h2>PART 1: Getting a new screen</h2>
12<p>
13You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where
14to get one.
15<pre>
16Part number: G112064-30
17Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan
18</pre>
19<p>
20Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to
21listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at:
22<p>
23<a href="http://www.newmp3technology.com/">http://www.newmp3technology.com/</a>
24<p>
25For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60
26minimum just to look at it.)
27
28<h2>PART 2: Disassembling the Frame</h2>
29<p>
30This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx
31bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to
32take the box apart.
33<p>
34<a href="http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html">http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html</a>
35
36<h2>PART 3: Desoldering</h2>
37<p>
38There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are
39three on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at
40the top end. The side points are structural, but the top two (which are on
41either side of the microphone) supply power to the hard drive. I am not
42going to tell you how to desolder a joint. That is up to you. I found it
43helpful to use a small tool to lift up the joints as I worked, seperating
44the side ones individually and then gradually working out the top ones. I
45certainly hope you are more competant at desoldering than I.
46<p>
47The two electronics boards inside the Archos are connected by a paralell
48connector, much like the one you find on the back of your hard drives,
49though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will
50stick together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by
51several wires. Don't break them.
52<p>
53<b>NOTE</b>: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires
54embedded in them. This won't make your life any easier.
55<p>
56<b>NOTE</b>: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work,
57make sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of
58simple scotch tape worked for me.)
59<p>
60BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work!
61<p>
62Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is
63for the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative.
64<p>
65<a href="http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html">http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html</a>
66
67<h2>PART 3: The New LCD</h2>
68<p>
69Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of
70the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector.
71When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation
72(duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back
73down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful
74with the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile.
75
76<h2>PART 4: Test!</h2>
77<p>
78Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board
79so the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the
80microphone! Now you can plug the unit into the AC adapter to see if the
81LCD works. You should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or
82something to that effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you
83can proceed to reassemble. If not, go back to part 3.
84<p>
85<h2>PART 5: Resolder</h2>
86<p>
87UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.)
88<p>
89Resolder the two top connections (the ones by the mic).
90<p>
91PLUG the archos back in. The hard drive should spin up. Nothing much more
92will happen until you put the batteries in though. (I think, I can't quite
93remember.)
94<p>
95Okay, good. Unplug the Archos again.
96<p>
97IMPORTANT: When you resolder the frame points, make sure you don't leave
98any pointy bits of solder poking into where the batteries run. I did, and
99they scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame,
100melted the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling
101awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to
102put the tape back on if you removed it.
103
104<h2>PART 6: Reassemble the Archos!</h2>
105<p>
106Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber
107bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site
108about how to put them on the right way.
109<p>
110Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your
111firmware, I bet it's out of date!
112
113<h2>CONCLUSION</h2>
114<p>
115In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone
116qualified, but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few
117things about my Archos though, and I look forward to trying some of the
118other mods.
119<p>
120I'm sure there are people out there (real pros) who are horrified at what
121I have written. Please, correct any mistakes I have made in this document
122so future 'boxers don't have to go through the hours of stress and strain
123I did.
124
125#include "foot.t"
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